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Other entries in Machu Picchu

Camino Inka & Machu Picchu

So finally the time arrived to do the only thing we had actually planned in advance on this whole trip- The famed Inka Trail. After 4 days of bumming around Cusco we arrived for our briefing session the night before and were greeted by a group of 4 young travelling couples- 2 from England (Celina and Paul who are on honeymoon and their friends Laura and Greg), 1 from Canada (Erin and Jason) and one from Switzerland (Andrea and Beat who we had met in Colca canyon). So far so good. Our guide, Freddie seemed to be pretty nice too although we were a little worried when he advised us that in order to enjoy our trek, we would need a lot of Patience and Good Humour. We hoped this didn`t bode too badly on what was ahead of us! We felt a little sheepish at being the only couple who had hired a porter (at the time it seemed like a good idea), but when we saw the size of the sleeping bags we had hired we wererather relieved.They took up almost the entire capacity of our bag! We then failed to get an early night as deciding what to pack and what to leave and what order to pack things in got the better of us.

We awoke at the crack of dawn (5am) and were glad we were all organised when we were fetched from the hostel (for a change). Everyone else on the bus seemed as tired as we were and we all pretty much passed out until we arrrived in Ollantaytambo( near the start of the trek). It took us a long time to actually get going once we arrived at the beginning of the trail at Km82. We were one group of about 250 trekkers so we realised immediately we would be trekking with the masses. Everyhting was very organised though with check points and lists of names as well as a weigh in station for the porters to make sure theya re not carrying more than the limit of 25 kg pp.

Each group has 2 guides, up to 20 trekkers and a porter for each person. We (a gropup of 10) had 11 porters including our cook (who was possibly the most important person in our opinion). The porters are amazing. Most are little stocky Peruvians built like mules with awesome calf muscles. They wear these traditional sandals made out of what looks like car tyre rubber (not exactly your average hiking boot). On their back they carry big bags (similar to large mielie meal bags) which are tied on with  pieces of cloth in a kind of a back pack arrangement. In these bags they literally carry everything, including the Kitchen sink.. They run up and down the trails like mountain goats while we were all huffing and puffing our sorry selves along.  

The first days hiking was relatively easy. I think they do this so you don`t get terrified and turn around while the beginning is still in sight! We hiked along just above the Rio Urubamba until we arrives at a ruined Inka settlement (already forgotten the name) at which point the trail turned away from the Urubamaba valley towards our campsite. Unfortunately the spectacular views of Salkantay peak and various Glaciers where obscured due to some ominous looking clouds that stayed a little ahead of us all the way until the fthe campsite a Wayllabamba. We were all jovially taking bets as to what time we expected it to start raining. This all while the sun shone but it was unfortunately the last we would see of it and we shouldn`t have been so flippant!

I think we were all pretty impressed when we arrived at the lunch camp and were provided with a big dining tent with camping stools and a feast of food including an avo cocktail starter and delicious piping hot grilled trout main course. This was just the beginning! We figured the porters didn`t like carrying the food and were trying to get us to eat as much of it at each sitting as possible because there was just so much we didn`t know what to do with it by the end!

By the time we arrived in Camp- tents all at the ready on a lovely little patch of grass- the clouds had moved in and it started to spit. By the time we ate dinner it was drizzling steadily. With nothing else to do in the damp dark we gorged ourselves on dinner and all went off to bed in preparation for our 5am start.

It rained all night. Luckily we remained warm and dry and were awoken by the head porter with a cup of tea in our tent. Service with a smile! We were then packed full to capacity with a delicious breakfast of porridge, pancakes, toast and fruit.

By he time we got going on day 2 the rain had let up but the mist remained firmly in place. The hike that day was grueling. We ascended steadily all morning to Dead Woman`s Pass (we couldn`t get a straight answer as to the origin of the name but if you use your imagination the profile of the mountain looks a little like a woman with a very perky chest lying on her back). The real paved trail of rough granite blocks and steps began in the cloud forest which reminded us very much of hiking in the Drakensburg alongside a rushing stream. We climbed and climbed and after emerging from the line of cloud forest to the more arid grassland the rain set in. By the time we reached the top at 4200m (out of breath and exhausted from the 4 hour ascent) we were being pelted with rain and blown about by a nasty cold wind. Obviously we were not in the mood to enjoy any kind of view (not that there was one to enjoy). One of the guides had been playing an eerie tune on a pipe that first egged us on and then seemed to insult us as we struggled for breath! It is amazing how altitude can become such a centre of attention. It has become the measure of all things in the last 2 weeks.

We very quickly began the knee jerking descent to camp which looked like a very long way down. The rain abated a little and we were able to enjoy the scenery. There were hundreds of flowers everywhere, and were able to see a number of crystal clear waterfalls and stream running down to join the bigger stream near the camp.

Lunch was most welcome as we were obviously starving by the time we got to camp at Pacamayo (3600m). Unfortunately camp was a muddy affair and we were dubious as to the position of various rivulets of water running near the tents. The rain began again in earnest so there was little to do but hang out in the tent chatting until dinner and then to bed.

Chatting and eating were the main activities aside from walking. We were very fortunate to be in a group of very like minded people, all of whom were very relaxed and highly entertaining. There was much reciting of extracts form ``Little Britain`` from the Brits... Anyone? No? Dust!

IT rained all night. No wait, it POURED! In the middle of the night Ant stretched his legs and discovered that the entire bottom half of his sleeping bag was lying in a pool of water. Joy. Very little sleep was had for the rest of the night while we tried desperately to stay within the confines of our sleeping mats (the only thing protecting us from the steady stream of water running through the middle of our tent) and tossed and turned on the very hard compacted mud ground. We were so happy to be woken at 430!

Day 3 was beautiful when it wasn`t raining. The trek was easier than thie first day in that the ups and downs were more interspersed with lots of stops at various ruins along the way. The swirling mist actually made for quite a special experience, seeing the ruins appear and disappear and periodically be illuminated by a patch of sunlight was very beautiful. Or guide impressed on us the spiritual significance of the trail and the progression of buildings along it., each one more important than the last culminated with the sheer awe of Machu Picchu. The trail itself was an exercise in something other than just a way from A to B. It was in no way economical. Instead of hugging a valley, it climbed up and down to get the best vantage. It hugged the side of the mountains high up with sheer drops of to the side. In some places the foundation of the retaining walls are as high as 20m! We went up another pass and had another knee jerking descent which Paul kept our minds off by prancing from rock to rock like a little mountain goat. We then went through quite a bit of cloud forest where we staved off hunger by sprouting useless `Did you know` facts at each other. We ate an enormous lunch and then finally made our way to the campsite at Winay Wyna where hot showers and Beer awaited us (as well as a visit to the Winay Wayna ruins- a minature Machu Picchu).

Ok here goes again...The evening was spent... wait for it... EATING and (seeing as it was our last night) drinking an assortment of  spirits (rum, anis, pisco) and beer in celebration of maiking it that far. And it was no surprise when at about 7:30 it began to rain. And rain and rain and rain! The toilets were about a 10 minute walk away so we were all pretty mis when we got to bed.

Despite pouring rain we remained dry enough and were awoken at 4:30 (torture!). This was in aid of the porters who had to get us all up. feed us and then pack up the entire campsite and cane it down the mountain to the train which departed promptly at 6:30am. Eish. These guys work hard for their money. Our $275 was not seeming like alot to pay for the service we got!

Unfortunately one person out of every couple (Unlucky for Ant) awoke with tremendous stomach cramps (could it have been all the booze?) and nausea. This made climbing the rest of the way in misty damp a little unpleasant. Luckily our guide had the foresight to insist that we would not leave with the hordes in order to make the sun gate for sunrise as it was quite clear that there was be no sunrise to be had! Prayed the whole slippery way that we would actually be able to see the ruins for the mist.

The descent into Machu Picch was beautiful. The swirling mists gave us intermittent glimpses of portions of the ruins and the peak behind, but it wasn't until we arrived at the guardhouse that we saw it propoerly for the first time. It is an awesome place. When you think that when the Inka's arrived there for the first time, it was just a mountain peak similare to those surrounding it. The amount of time, effort and toil it took to carve the top of this granite rock, foirst into terraces and then into buildings is just astounding. About 300 people lived there at any time and it took about 100 years to build... and was never completed. And remember they had no steel tools! They used the natural fissures in the rocks along with wooden stakes and water to carve them. An how intricately they were carved! Certain walls have interlocking stonework like nothing I have ever seen before! some stones have 13 corners (and those are just the visible ones). They really knew how to choose their spots. The views were breathtaking and the sheer perseverance of constructing something like that is just mindblowing.

We wandered around the ruins in the swirling mist hoping against hope that the rain would stay at bay. Alas and alack it was not to be! Half of our group were grumbling with bad tummies and we were all so sick of being wet, muddy and cold. This was a great pity cos I could ahve stayed there all day in good weather. We were also somewhat disconcerted by the news that there would be no return train as there had been a mudslide or 2 on the tracks. (luckily for us thought this meant fewer tourists to ruin our experience of the ruins)

After about 3 hours exploring in the rain we made our way down to Aguas Calientas for a well deserved soak in the hot springs. Or so we thought. On arrival we were informed that we had to swiftly make our way to the station in order to secure our place on the only train (out of 3 that were due to depart). We felt very sorry for all the porters and guides who were forced to remain where they were as only tourists were permitted on the train. We got our place but waited stationary on the platfor for 2 hours before we could leave. Of course to add insult to injury,we had beautiful sunshine for the 2 hour journey alongside the raging chocolate milk Urubamba river! Even so we only made it to Ollantaytambo before being told we could go no further. By this stage it was about 7pm and we were exhausted. Ant was miserable due to dreaded Inka Trail Lurgy. Eventually we got on a bus back to Cusco and were very relived to arrive in one piece and not be missing our Jungle expedidtion at 7am the next morning. We certainly do not make life easy for ourselves!

xx V&A

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