Nasca, Peru
14° 49' S 74° 56' W
May 18, 2006 20:18
Distance 406km

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The Signs in the Lines

Text written in: English

Our overnight bus from Arequipa arrived around 6am, with Ben having slept the whole way. We walked to the main square, inquired about prices for flying tours over the 'Nasca Lines' and then got a taxi to the airport to get a better deal.

The lines are a bit of a mystery. In the 1930s, pilots flying over the huge desert area noticed patterns in the sand, beginning a period of investigation. The patterns were soon identified as giant animal and plant shapes - a hummingbird, condor, spider and tree, to name but a few of the dozen or so shapes. The reason for their creation has puzzled people ever since, as they can only be seen properly from the sky. The most interesting shape, is one that clearly resembles an astronaut or alien, fuelling speculation that the ancient civilisation that constructed them were in contact with extra-terrestrials.

At the airport, we both bought 'co-pilot' seats, meaning we would get better views, but would have to go in separate aeroplanes. Ben went first, while I crossed the road to a hotel that shows a documentary on the lines. By the time it was my turn to fly, Ben had just landed, looking a little strange. Slightly nervous myself, I boarded the 4 seater plane, next to the pilot, with a French couple in the back, and we were soon airborne, heading across the desert.

We reached the first few shapes, with the pilot flying over each one for my benefit and then circling around so that the Frenchman in the back could take his photos from the other side. I happily snapped away on my camera and even did a bit of filming. It was on the 5th of the 12 shapes that I realised why Ben had returned looking less than enthusiastic. I had just seen 'the monkey' and was filming it on the return, when the plane banked heavily down on the left side and my stomach rumbled. From then on I was on the verge of vomiting, which severely hampered my enjoyment.

I had already found it difficult to get decent photos from the shaky aircraft and had captured the shapes I really wanted to see, but the pilot would circle the area until we all had photos of each one, so I had to go through the charade of holding my camera up to the window, clicking a couple of times and exclaiming, "Wow!" and, "Qué bonito!" before we would move on. It was a strange feeling, because I was amazed by what I was seeing, all the while eager for it all to end as soon as possible. Eventually, the pilot announced that we had seen them all and it was a 10mins flight back to Nasca. I closed my eyes and prayed. It was definately something that I will reflect on and be glad that I have done, but the memories will be better than the event itself.

Having seen the area's attractions by 10am, Ben and I returned to the town still feeling a little worse for wear. We couldn't shake off the feeling of impending regurgitation until after lunch, by which time I had to catch my bus to Pisco. Ben would be heading back to Arequipa and then south into Chile to catch up on the places that I went to while he was doing his Spanish course in Buenos Aires. With Martin back in Europe and Tasso back in Brazil, the Inka Boys were finally separated. It was a farewell that neither of us wished to take place.

I jogged to the bus station to find that my bus was delayed for a couple of hours. This meant a return to the internet café and a brief reunion with Ben, who must have seen me coming and dried his tears before I got there. When I left an hour later, there was no going back.

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