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the last week has been a contrast between the usual seeing and doing as much as possible and being dead tired - I think I better get used to this.

I returned from huaraz with a bad cough, aching ribs and enough snot out of my nose to fill a small swimming pool. I still wouldnt admit I needed to see a doctor but by the next morning I could barely raise my arms to get dressed, so 

I finally admitted something was wrong....and now I get to visit a peruvian hospital! Thankfully my wonderful friend Anna (who speaks impeccable spanish :) came along for the ride. one hour later and only $30 USD, I had a script for drugs and a need to rest that I mostly ignored.

around recovery, the week was spent seeing more great galleries, museums, & eating amazing food. (I think I finally gained back my lost weight from the selva!). downtown lima is becoming my most favorite place: dirty, threats of pick-pockets, grafitti, no blondes. I like it! I ate tacu tacu - a local dish of beans and rice, drank saeco - a chilled peruvian red wine, saw the original walls of lima city - discovered only one year ago!, found a local fair and ate a cup of caramel (oof.).

museo larco is an amazing museum FULL of ancient peruvian artifacts & tapestries, plus 4 amazing rooms floor-to-ceiling crammed with pottery (huacos) - all arranged by subject (pumas, toads, old dudes, dolphins, scary dudes, dead dudes w/ babies, etc) - it's an archeologist's wet dream. they also have a special "erotic museum".  history books in united states pretty much ignore the existance of erotic art. in peru, they feature rooms full of it. maybe sometimes I giggled like a 13 year old boy, but mostly it was *refreshing* to see this represented!!

I finally saw videos of the 2 bands Juan plays in (manganzoides & 3 al hilo). mosh pits abound and from what's been translated, maybe it's good I don't understand the lyrics, but it's AWESOME to see the lima music scene in action (one guy dancing so drunk he just fell over....).

this past saturday was my birthday - the first I've spent out of the country. I spent the day finishing a few collages - what joy and luxury to have a 'home base' to create art. the rest of the night was spent with wonderful friends (matt, anna, juan) eating great food, having great conversation, and wandering the streets until a stupid hour in the morning. overall, it was exactly what I hoped for in a birthday!

but now, it's time to say good bye - I have truly loved everything about lima. it's hard to go but my visa is about to expire. so not only am I leaving lima, but ALL of peru. monday is a 20 hr bus ride to the chilean border. from there, no set plans except to chill on a beach and get over my cold. if I feel better, maybe head to bolivia, but so far the altitude has had its way with me (parts of bolivia are over 15,000 feet). we'll see. if there's one thing I've learned it's never anticipate what you think might happen, because something else always does....this has been the peruvian way, I assume it's the south american way too.

hasta luego peru

Photos / videos of "hasta luego peru":