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Other entries in Machu Picchu

keeping up with the boys

what a great trek to machu picchu despite my peruvian (tardy) start: the day of departure, I showed up 10 minutes late to a closed and locked office - guess they're on english time. mild panic/shock was setting in when christian, our guide (who I didn't know from adam at the moment) showed up. he rushes me into a taxi and we head across town - no idea where, or really who he is. we get to the bus station, so at least I'm not getting kidnapped - but Im the last one on & theres no room for my backback - it gets shoved by my legs - whoops.

we race out of town and turn onto a rutted dirt road. as we climbed higher into the andes, we pass sections I swear they finished building JUST before we got there. these are roads people take 4wheel jeeps on in colorado, but this is a greyhound-style bus in peru - we even did stream crossings.  at the first one, the driver sat for 2 minutes scoping it out, then turned on the radio (to drown out what?) and gunned it. we also watched a jet li movie dubbed in spanish driving over andean mountain passes. that was unforgettable!

after a couple hours, 2 blond guys get off with their bikes and a guide - I suspect theyre part of my tour. I stay on with christian. I realize later that (probably) 'cause I'm a girl, they are starting me farther down hill. given the condition of my bike (rattles, out of alignment, brakes - what brakes?) and how long its been since I rode, at first I was OK with this, but once the biking legs came back and I was leaning into corners, my ego kicked in a little. but whatever, no worries, it was great fun! Christians bike wouldnt shift out of first. I suggested jamming a rock into the front derailleur. I think he was shocked I even knew what a front derailleur was. but he'd have nothing to do with my suggestion (cant say I blame him). despite this, approaching every city, he'd pedal like hell to take the lead. I'm sure it was a pride thing. what the heck, I let him :)

we decend through the sacred valley getting closer and closer to the urubamba river down below. it was so wonderful to be back in the jungle. for all my complaining of 3 weeks ago, I miss it like hell. the heat and the humidity are just wonderful. even the bugs feel like some sort of homecoming! we stop at some incan ruins - this part of the valley was a gateway to to other areas so we were seeing a lookout point. the local village is slowly reconstructing the ruins. 

3 or 4 hours later, we get to Santa Maria. we are SO dirty, wet from stream crossings, and blowing brown snot. I also have my second blister (the last one was from the machette!). I meet the 2 dutchies, Jan & Roderic, both 21. So I realize my guide is 22, they're 21...maybe I'm in trouble for this trek. especially seeing their small daypacks compared to my backpack. (I'm not headed straight back to cusco so I have most of my shit with me.) uh-oh.

day 2 we hit the trail and sure enough, the uphills were brutal, but life in colorado has served me well and I dont think I ever got too far behind. we hiked a section of inka trail, about 1,500 feet above the Urubamba river, with a sheer drop off to the bottom. at one point, a fresh rock slide was covering our trail (as in, tiny rocks were still falling!). Christian stabilized it for us. to the right, watch out for rocks, to the left, watch out for the direct chute down to the river. nice. we hiked for about 6 hours (the hike is supposed to take 8 so we had a great pace!). clearly we are a strong group. I wonder why we are in such a hurry, but secretly, I'm SO happy for this workout! and the valley we are moving through is amazing - deep canyons, raw rock formations, jungle fauna; and its spring here - buds are everywhere! I can't help thinking about those incas traveling on this exact same path...we end the day at the hot springs outside santa teresa. after soaking for an hour we head to town for dinner & beers. sadly, this town was wiped out by a flash flood years ago and they are rebuilding everything on the hill above the river, but fascinating to see modern city planning, peruvian style (lots of cinder block and similar construction). over beers, the talk turned to girlfriends. it was cool to listen to these young guys be so in love.

next day we hiked along the river - less uphill and wonderfully hot! by now we've crossed the river on these crazy cable car thingys 2 times. each one has had a memorial/grave for someone who died doing lord knows what. the river rages below so it's a little unsettling, but once I overlook the questionable construction, its great fun! that day at lunch, we ask christian what kind of soup we're eating. he borrows a dictionary and tells us it's 'rotten potato soup'. god I hope something got lost in this translation. he also said the incas used to eat this - are we really so gullible to eat or do anything the incans used to do?? yup, pretty much. after lunch, we follow the train tracks towards aguas callientes, the city at the base of machu picchu. we see a hydroelectric plant, some incan trail carved out of a (shear!) cliff side, and our first glimpe of machu pichhu from below. I can feel the excitement growing - how can it get better than the past 3 days? our hostel in AC was heaven - my own bathroom, a toilet seat and TP. it takes so little to make me happy these days :)

we partied it up in AC (had to, of course!). the dutchies had been explaining how to do a tequilla shot and if I hadn't actually seen it, I would never believe. first squirt the lime in your eyes (they did), next snort the salt up your nose (they did). NOW down the tequilla. they claim it tastes like water...uh-huh. christian and I downed ours the old fashioned way. anywhoo, we had to get up at 4am so at this point there was no use sleeping - another all nighter for me (seriously, I'll sleep when I'm dead).

the next day (actually that same day), finally, machu picchu!! the mountains were covered in clouds - what mystery. we first climb to the top for the classic over-view. I cried again (such a sap :). I'm here. really HERE! we sat in silence and watched the clouds reveal tiny sections one by one. I read that 50% has been re-built/re-stored. before arriving I thought they should leave the ruins as they found them, but now I'm happy to get to 'see' how this community was constructed. as the day went on the sun came out more. I hiked up waynu picchu to overlook the city. I heard such horror stories about this hike (so steep!) but even with my lack of sleep it was great fun. that was a tiny personal demon vanquished! overall, this was an amazing, powerful place. I hear theres another city discovered a few mountains away. can't help but wonder how many cities this jungle holds.

a few hours later we board the train for Ollantaytambo. the guys will keep heading to cusco, I stay in O to see more ruins. when we get there, the crowd is so intense, I could maybe jump up and just be pulled along. I finally get spit out the other side and start walking towards town but I see no sign of my crew. I'm back on my own.

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