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Other entries in Coffee Bay

The Coffee Shack

We'll say it quietly so no one can hear. The best kept secret in S.A. if Fish river complex. No one is there it is all dirt road, and cost next to nothing to get in (50 rand for 2 plus a car). It isn't full of animals but what it does have is stunning. First thing in the morning we where advided by a warden we bumped into to go up this road where 2 black rhino where spotted earlier. Sure enough after a while we came across them. We didn't see much of them as they are very shy, and legged it as soon as we arrived. But we saw them as clear as day as they crossed the road less than 15 metres in front of us. Amazing. Becuase there had been some rain overnight we couldn't cross the ford in our car so then had to go around the park and in fom the other side to see the main concentration of game. WE did and boy was it worth it. Appart from everything else we came across 5 white rhino on top of a hill. We were all alone, switched of the engine and put the windows down and watched them for over half an hour. They got so close it was frightening and amazing in the same breath. We loved it.
In the afternoon we headed via Fort Hare (where Mandela was kicked out of Uni), to King Williams Townand to the grave of Steve Biko. It was a very basic grave in an shabby graveyard. Not what we had come to expect for such a great man. It was moving though and they have made a great effort in the town with the introduction of the memorial garden. Then onward in the pouring rain, past Qunu and Nelson Mandela's house which oddly is right on the main road. Not far after this we took the turn off for Coffee bay. Which is still 80+ Km away down a long and winding road. It took ages and we where nackered when we finaly arrived just before dark.
The Shack is a cool place lots of travellers and lots going on, which the owners help organise and encourage everyone to get involved in the community. We were too tired to get involved in the fancy dress party they had organised that evening and had an early night, after our free introductory beer. Next morning we went on a village tour with a couple from England Ricky and Nikki. We had a great time visiting a local house and seeing how that works. Going round their siritual sights and getting a feel for the beliefs and culture of the Chosa people. Our guid, Bwoome, let his nephews and their friends follow us and we had a great time with the kids, especially when we put natural red paint on our faces. We had lunch back at Bwoome's family home and then visited a local shabeen (illegal pub). The idea is to pass around this large tin full of locally brewed beer and each person has a sip. Looking at the local drunks we decided to pass and went back to the hostel for a nice cold Castle. Lovely. The weather was pretty poor most of the time at the Coffee shack so we decided to move on as its best when the sun shines there.

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