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Arequipa / Volcanoes Canyons and Condors

Arequipa - Another Colonial City, population 1 mil and Peru´s second biggest city. The Bus journey here was extended by 2 hour delay because of a rockfall on the coastal road and created a traffic jam of abut 20 or 30 buses in the pitch dark a stones throw from the cliffside.

Arrived at 10 am and booked myself on a hike into Colca Canyon leavng at 1 am. 13 hours later (this is so that arrival at the canyon coincides with the best time to view condors). The hiking party into Colca Canyon consisted of Pepijn, (Dutch ex merchant seaman) and Monica, the guide, (Diminutive Peruvian Sophisticate). I was very interested to hear about modern day pirates from P. and the security involved in sea travel particularly in South America.

We descended about 1km into the Canyon in about 1.5 hours and I would love to have said I was setting the pace but it was our dynamo guide doing all the work - her sneakers and Winnie the Pooh satchel was just a disguise. Passing a smalL herd of cows heading up to pasture I caught sight of a CALF in a basket on the back OF A HORSE.

We had a typical Peruvian lunch at the local - roasted corn snacks, soup, then a main of rice, omelette, salad an fries followed by coca leaf tea. The canyon was beautiful especially the volcanic rock formations which looked like huge organ pipes and we ended the day at an Oasis on a river bend with a swim and a few beers before joining the bugs on our beds for a good nights rest.

Next day we rose at 3am for the night climb back out the Canyon to see condors at the most opportune time yet again. Unfortunately for me it was mating season so the Condors were otherwise indisposed for my entire visit to the canyon but I did spot the rare WOOLY CONDOR(vultura fabricatis) soaring above the canyon walls (see pictures).
I discovered from Ruth that 2 condors decided to take a break from their seasonal festivities and made an appearance a mere 30 mins after I left. Jokes involving condors and me continue even today. Tried my first alpaca steak here - the smaller cousin of the llama and known for is soft wool - not bad at all!

Although I didn´t go an visit her in the museum, I was intrigued to hear the story of ´Juanita´, a mummified girl discovered entombed in ice near Arequipa in recent times. Apparently it was a huge honour in ancient times to be chosen for a ritual sacrifice and Juanita´s crime was to have been the most beautiful girl in all of southern Peru. So after a 600km walk to Arequipa she was taken up the mountain and bonked on the head by priests to ensure prosperity for the local inhabitants for the following year.

Practical matters arose on my last day when I realized I could be asked for my yellow fever vaccination certificate at the various border crossings ahead. This was a palava and a half, even in a city like Arequipa: The private clinic wouldn´t vaccinate me because I didn´t have an international card, the local hospital wouldn´t either as they had NO vaccine. I ended up back at the clinic, buying the vaccine myself and then couriering it across town on ice to be vaccinated by a Peruvian woman who was kept hidden behind a curtain and was only brought out to perform injections (a bit like a performing monkey). None of this could have been accomplished without Ian, a Brit who had been teaching in Nicaragua for 2 years and who inadvertently volunteered to be my translator for the 3 hours that were needed.

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