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The point of being in Chachapoyes, apart from leaving the main gringo trail for a bit, is to see Kuelap (a big pre inca fort). To get to Kuelap is a 3 hour arse breaking journey, for a mere 75 km. The roads are not great in the north of Peru. However, perched on the top of a 3000m mountain, this 600m x 120m, 3 level fort is quite a y place. Not a top check, but a good check.
I can finally report that there is decent beer in South America! I sampled Cristal and it´s not too bad a all.
There was just time to get to Keulap and back before the 458km overnight bus to Chiclayo, were there are more ruins. Cultured me...heh.
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