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The Paraguayan and Argentinean immigration offices are on both sides of the bridge, not as efficient as on the borders with Uruguay. The first stop at the Argentinean side was ok as I did not have to get off all my luggage and the bus waited. On the Paraguayan side everything has to get off as they might search it. Entering a country is normally slower then leaving. So the bus did not wait and I had to wait for the next one. I could use the same ticket and it was only 20 minutes. In the meantime I was hassled by some commercially thinking people who offered a taxi service into town. No thank you I have a ticket already for the bus.
Encarnacion, the border town, a few kilometers away, has 50.000 people and was as bit dodgy at first side. Dirty and just a bit too much of a border town I guess. After a detour through the old part of town that is almost sinking in the river, which level has risen because of a dam further on, we stopped outside the small bus terminal of Encarnacion. A took refuge in Hotel Germano, hooping to find old SS people here who fled after the war. 15000 Guaranies per night sounded horribly expensive until I found out the excange rate is about 7500 to the Euro. Excellent value all of a sudden. Clean, simple and a fan and bed with reasonable matrass is all I want and I got exactly that with friendly service!
Paraguay must have one of the friendliest ATM in the world. The first five did not accept my card but all printed a receipt with my name on it and informing me in English where the nearest other ATMS where that I could try! I have never seen that before in any country I have been to. Thank God the fifth machine allowed me to spend money in the country. Instant millionaire again by the way, although for the time being I only got 700.000 Guaranies, which should last some time. Time to learn some prices in Paraguay.
Paraguay must also be the only country in the world with a flag that is different on each side! Prices where good by the way. Much cheaper than Argentina and I guess about 10 euros a day will be more than enough for the next two or maybe more weeks.
Encarnacion was not very interesting but better than at first sight. Interesting to see what bastard would be on the central square here as I am sick of all Sarmiento, San Martin or Artigas statues by now. Well, there was a statue of Maria, a monument to the people of Encarnacion and some statue of a Ukranian idiot. I could not read the Russian plaque. There are at least two Russian Orthodox churches in Encarnacion, which is above average I would say. A Supermercado Hollandes, complete with windmills and tulips did not sell anything remotely Dutch, so no boerenkool or borrelnootjes for me. The Korean owner of a supermarket, long time since I have seen so many non-Italian/Spanish people, was wearing a Guus Hiddink T-shirt, provoking me to speak in Spanish about Dutch soccer with a Korean in Paraguay!
For the people who always having wanted to go to Jesus, I can tell you that a stairway to heaven is not needed, you can take a bus. Before I went to Jesus, I went to Trinidad. A bit far I hear people think, as Trinidad is a country off the coast from Venezuela (get an atlas if you do not know where it is people!).
A bus from the terminal across from the hotel Germano got me to Trinidad in about half an hour. In Trinidad, 28 km from Encarnacion, there is Paraguays best restored Jesuit Mission. There are about 32 of them in the area, in all three countries Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. Trinidad was far more impressive than San Ignacio and Santa Ana. I have no idea why my guidebook says that it rivals the Argentinean ones. It does not rival them at all. It is superior!
Trinidad mission dates from 1706 and is one of the later missions. About 4000 people lived here in around 1728. The ruins are in excellent condition and greatly restored. The view from one of the walls where you can get up to with stairs is great and the surroundings of the site are very green and hilly. I was the only visitor, something I could hardly believe. San Ignacio in Argentina was not crowded but there were always a few people around there. Here it was just me, nature and history. Fantastic! What a place!
The turn off to Jesus was just across from Trinidad. 11 km to Jesus. It was very hot and the dirt road/track was deserted. Red earth track, surrounded by green paddocks. Cows were grazing, some exotic birds were singing and I was sweating more sweat than I thought I had. Five cars passed, all in the wrong direction. A bus passed, in the wrong direction. After 6 km I saw a sign that Jesus was just 4 km away. 500 Meters further there was sign it was 8 km away. Thank God the bus returned and took me to Jesus, about 5 km away.
The ruins of Jesus, of the mission I mean, were a lot less impresive than the ones at Trinidad. The site was deserted too. I asked the cashier how many people had visited today. Four was the answer and that included me. 2000 Guaranies per person, about 30 eurocent, was the entrance fee. Total sales, as nobody arrived after I left at 5 pm I guess, was 1.20 euro. Not even enough for a coffee in the good old Netherlands I guess.
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