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After 13 hours we reached Siem Reap... I did not have any inclination to go out so after finding a room and showering I went and had a curry (which was ok but of course not hot) before retiring for the evening.
The few days that I spent in Siem Reap were probably "ok" at the most. I couldn't quite put my finger on it but there was something that made me feel as if I couldn't wait to move on. I met nice people, I drank at the pre-requisite hilariously named bar (The Angkor What? Bar) and stayed out late but it wasn't quite right. I saw some of the town, never felt unsafe and yet I was uncomfortable. Maybe it was because, Siem Reap, is only there because of Angkor Wat? The town has no other reason to exist except to make money off Angkor Wat. So I guess it had no geographical purpose, no heritage... no soul?
On my final night, I was walking home and suddenly I had a young child keeping pace with me asking for money. After the 8th "No!", he started to tap me on the shoulder and something ball-shaped kept poking me in the side... it was dark and I didn't like to look down. But after another minute it was starting to seriously bug me and I was close to whacking whatever this ball-thing was but before doing so... I wanted to know what this constant prod-prodding was so I looked down and realised it was an infant's head. The child was carrying his infant sibling and the sleeping babe's prone head kept butting me gently as we walked.
I revised the decision to lash out but before I could think anymore on it a moto driver drove up on my left. I felt much better... because now I had a begging child (with optional infant extra) on my right and a moped driver on my left asking if I wanted to be his friend, or a ride to my hostel, a massage, a lady for the night or perhaps even a ride to a nice club with girls for sale. I wondered if I was, indeed, the luckiest man alive and then realised that I wasn't because I didn't have a final Cambodian in front of me trying to sell me postcards, a guide book and souvenirs. After all 3 IS the magic number.
Bye bye Siem Reap!
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