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Other entries in Kuching

Hi ho, its headhunting we go...

Just had to put that on, I would have died if it had deleted so much writing! And not unlikely here either. So the day after the Pinnacles we creaked out of bed, brewed up some tasty chicken rice porridge with tuna for brekky, drank a lot of 3-in-1 by the river, and set off along the headhunters trail! It's about 12km, fairly flat, between two rivers. The reason its called the headhunters' is that back in the day, the Iban made the trail by dragging their longboats overland between the rivers on their way to/from headhunting missions to the coast (the Iban live in the interior of the island). The nearest we saw to heads were mouldy durian (famously stinky fruit - "tastes like heaven, smells like hell") lying all over the path - the victims of some local's sword I guess!

The walk was beautiful and we saw all sorts of strange bugs, birds and rock formations. I only got one leech on my hand, but Pat got a few (ha, cos he was going on about how they hate him). I guess by that stage I smelt too bad even for the leeches... we met our nboatmen halfway and scandalised them by having an amazing swim in the river by the boat. The water there is kind of a deep orange from some mineral deposit in it, and very deep and strong. I was holding onto a vine looking down at my legs under the water - it looked like I was swimming in blood or something! Very disconcerting!  When the guys finally persuaded us out of the water, we piled into the boat, scaled a few rapids and got out at the rangers placefor lunch. Amazingly, we had all come thus far relaively un war-wounded (leeches and bruises don't count, neither do bee stings), but Jon managed to blow it by breaking... his toe! On the picnic bench! He also dislocated it but luckily he is a GP in real life so he just popped it back in. I could never, ever do that to myself.... ugh. The rest of the bat took quite a lnong time, at least a couple of hours. I'm not really sure as I kind of dozed off in the sun... woke up very sunburnt at a longhouse stop for coke and beers! There were women there weaving baskets out of flax so I made them a flower, maori-styles, and they made me a fan for the rest of the journey. It was a nice half hour. 

At Limbang (final destination), the gang of 3 celebrated civilisation and hot showers with a sweet chinese feed in front of a game of soccer, lots of tiger beer and milo, and a very cute kitten which sat on my lap all night long. It was an amazing few days with a couple of awesome guys who I hope I will actually stay in touch with. Definitely the highlight of this trip - I can't wait to go back to Mulu fr more serious caving and walks!!!

Since then - I spent a day getting back to Miri, a day on a bus from Miri to Sibu, and a day on a boat from Sibu t Kuching. On the boat I met Aussie Tom of cave-swimming fame again (small country), and so him, me and his friend James went for an incredible steak dinner last night. Tom left today, so James and I got a massage, late breakfast, cruised some museums, now thinking about a wine bar... a different kind of great. I can't wait to get bacxk to the jungle tomorrow though!!!