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Other entries in George

A visit to the Outeniqua Transport Museum, George

One last point about Oudtshoorn from a European perspective.

 “Oudtshoorn is one of the homes of Afrikaans language and culture.  The towns most famous resident was Cornelis Jacobus Langenhoven (1873-1931), who is considered to be one of the fathers of Afrikaans.  By 1914 he became a member of parliament, where he struggled to have Afrikaans officially recognised as a national language. He was a prodigious writer, authoring important Afrikaans literature and penning 'Die Stem van Suid-Afrika’, the national anthem of South Africa prior to Nelson Mandela’s release and majority rule.”        

I recall walking around Hartenbos a number of years back.  You quickly learnt that the Africans of European ancestry (white people) were rather different.  These were not the anglophiles of Cape Town but instead a more rugged people – the people of ‘The Vow’, of Kruger and of Dr Malan.  Their first language was Afrikaans and not English; their outlook, well I perceived they were more likely to tough it out than seek refuge in the UK, Australia, New Zealand or Canada.  Perhaps my overuse of stereotypes paints an exaggerated picture but that’s what I felt in Hartenbos in 2002 and in Oudtshoorn today.  As if I were in a community in rural Ireland determined to cling onto their language and heritage despite the influences of the English speaking world round about them.  I recall that the great English travel writer, H.V.Morton, stated that:

 “What happened to the Boer in the wilderness is one of the most important facts of South African history...in renouncing Europe he accepted Africa; in taking the frontier as his home he came under new influences which moulded and remade him...” 

Departing from British control for the interior was later likened to an Old Testament experience.  The series of ‘Great Treks’ were akin to Moses leading the Israelites to the promised land. 

Time to leave our thatched hut (rondavel) at the Protea Hotel Riempie Estate but first planned stop breakfast.  I have sort of gone off Protea breakfasts on account of them being so variable last year and also expensive.  Even when breakfast is included in a rate, invariably this means for two and the kids are extra.  By opting for room only we can easily eat elsewhere.  Why have a bland buffet, which is largely ignored, when you can opt for a specific fry-up down the road, which is after all what I really want.  In a cafe environment the kids can also order what they want, hopefully cheap, continental options (horse food, yoghurt, fruit juice etc) as opposed to less healthy, less environmentally friendly and more expensive meat!

 We drove into the centre of Oudsthoorn (corner of Baron Van Heede & Voortrekker) and parked up, only to be plagued by a beggar and informal parking attendant.  I decided not to leave the hire car but to drive on in the direction of George.  Perhaps we could pick up an eatery on the outskirts of town.  Sadly all I found was a postbox! 

We headed towards the coast along the main N12.  I recalled a memorable journey along this route (under steam) in 2002.  It is not quite the same by car.  In 2002 it took two steam locomotives to pull our carriages up the pass to Oudsthoorn, 1000 ft above the sea.  Morton travelled this way by car in 1946 and stated: 

“Nowhere in the world are you more conscious of mountains than in the Cape Province.  They are never out of sight.  They are your daily companions.  To travel in the Cape is to cross mountains...” 

The high mountains surrounding surrounding George, the Outeniquas, were described by Morton as, “...extraordinarily Scottish...” I can see his point to a certain extent, although the arid terrain is rather different to the Cairngorms. 

 Today we ambled down the main road to the town of George, stopping at the famous railway museum, after first having a bite to eat at a traditional African eatery (McDonalds).  The railway museum is a good place to stop and spend a few hours.  In many ways it is no different from its counterparts in the UK (York, Glasgow & Belfast come to mind), St Petersburg (Russia) or Bullawayo (Rhodesia/Zimbabwe).  Each tells a local story of railway development through the engines and carriages on display.   In this case the 1947 Royal Train carriages and Paul Kruger’s coach and private salon, each tell a portion of the history of South Africa.  It also reminded me of time spent drinking at George Railway Station in good company. 

In 2002 we had the opportunity to travel on the Outeniqua Choo-tjoe steam service from George to Knysna.  This historic coastal rail line was opened in 1928 and passed over the famous Kaaimans River Bridge near Wilderness.  A photo of a steam train passing this scenic location used to be found in most tourist brochures.  Alas no more as floods in 2006 washed away part of the track on this route and to date it has not been reopened.  Perhaps it never will?  Since 2007 the steam service has operated between George and Mossel Bay, which is not quite the same in my opinion.  Indeed recently the whole operation was reported to be financial difficulty. 

“THE future looks bleak for the Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe steam train and heritage museum in George after staff were told that all operations would cease at the end of next month.

Western Cape Tourism MEC Garth Strachan yesterday appealed for calm after employees and tourism operators panicked when they heard from officials last Thursday that all operations would cease at the museum next month.

“I understand why the people of the Southern Cape are keenly interested in the decision about the future of the Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe. After all, it is a major tourism and steam heritage icon, not only for the Western Cape but for the whole of South Africa,” Strachan said yesterday.”

The Herald – 16^th February 2009

It is reported that over 150,000 tourists a year visit the museum and travel on the train, or used to when it went to Knysna.  However Transnet require R100M+ to fix up the line.  It is difficult to see the South African state coming up with that sort of money.  A notice at the door of the Museum stated that:

“Kindly note that the Outeniqua Choo-Tjoe train service has been suspended with effect from 01 July 2009 until further notice.Negotiations to find a new operator are still ongoing and until an agreement has been finalised no trains will be running.We apologise for any inconvenience caused and wish to convey our sincere gratitude for the support received over the years.” 

We pressed on returning to the main road and headed for Mossel Bay.  

“On February 3, 1488 Bartolomeu Dias sailed into Mossel Bay. When he landed in the bay he called it Bahia (Aguada) de Sao Bras (the Watering place of St. Blaize) St. Blaize, is the patron saint of those who suffer from disorders of the ear.”

Our first outing then was to the Dias Museum Complex, which we previously visited in 2002.  It contains a number of exhibits, both indoors and outdoors, of historical significance.

 “The building was originally erected in 1901 to serve as a grain and sawmill. It was adapted to serve as a unique Maritime Museum and houses the impressive life-size replica of Bartolomeu Dias's Caravel, the ship in which he sailed into Mossel bay in the year 1488.” 

The museum complex itself was revamped around the time of the 500^th anniversary of the arrival of Bartolomeu Dias.  It is best described as a large garden area interspersed with buildings of interest, such as the main maritime museum.  We (the adults) did not stand on the deck of the replica caravel and marvel, as we did in 2002 during our last visit to Mossel Bay, how it was possible to sail so far in so small a vessel.  The RMS St Helena is a leviathan compared with this tiny caravel.  Instead we sent Erin & Ailsa on board because the caravel Bartolomeu Dias attracts an additional charge!  They enjoyed climbing all over the ship and sliding along the deck!  Back in 2002 there were moments when I wished Erin & Ailsa were with us in South Africa; now they had the opportunity to experience some of the sights they missed. 

The most historically interesting exhibit is to be found in the garden – The Post Office Tree.  

“In 1500, Pedro de Ataide, Commander of one of Cabral's ships, left a letter of importance in a shoe or iron pot under or near a large tree.  

In 1501, Joao da Nova, Commander of the Third East India Fleet, found this letter en route to India. In this way, the first Post Office in South Africa was founded.” 

There is a modern post box next to the tree, where mail can be deposited and will receive a special stamp.  Leaving your letter in an old shoe attached to the tree is no longer an option!  We also visited the Shell Museum (Shirley Building), which was originally an extension of the Old Mill.  As well as the shell collection there is a touch tank for children and an assortment of fish tanks.  The children especially loved the sea horses.

At 1530hrs we returned to the Protea Hotel Mossel Bay and were shown to our accommodation. 

“The Protea Hotel Mossel Bay complex comprises 31 designer-decorated units, ranging from 23 three star en-suite rooms to eight 4 star self-catering harbour suites. The rooms' various categories range from standard, family and manor rooms to harbour and presidential suite.

Harbour suites have a modern lounge equipped with TV, Hi-fi and DVD, two bedrooms (main with kingsize bed, second with two twin beds), a fully equipped kitchen and dining area with bar area and a balcony overlooking the harbour, yaht club and Santos Beach.” 

Ruth and the children were most impressed with the harbour suite I had chosen.  Even I was taken aback by the quality of the accommodation and the view over the bay (almost as good as Troon)! At 1700hrs we went out to Pick n’ Pay for supplies.  We decided to eat in with steak, sausages, boerwoer, eggs, chips and toast.  A perfect end to the day.

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