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Verona. Monday, July 6th.
I was determined to exit Venice the same way as I came in, carrying my own luggage to the station (but wiser and more mindful of the bridges, the rat's nest of alleys, and armed with the inevitable knowledge that I would get lost). Eleven bridges later, I found the train station (two more than the minimum possible). Once there, the first decision was whether to take the milk run to Verona for 6.15 Euros, or the express train for 17 Euros. The express got you in 20 minutes earlier. I'll let you guess which mode I selected.
Verona has been described as a mini-Rome. With this pre-conceived and prejudiced idea in my mind, I headed out. But note, being compared to Rome is a supreme compliment. And to my positive relief, it is quite similar to Rome. It has a river winding through it (Adige), several bridges, numerous churches, a better colosseum, plazas, hills to climb and get views from, cobbled alleys and surprising sites around each corner. Reasonably, it is not quite as excellent, as there is only one Vatican City (St. Peter's Square/Basilica and Vatican Museum), and the strut of the Roman men and women as they walk is a unique and unforgettable sight.
What Verona has that defines it is their Arena (colosseum). Their colosseum was built by Caesar Augustus around 0 AD, and is the third largest in the world. It can seat 30,000 and to this day is used for operatic performances. When I was there it was being set up for a Verdi opera. The second famous feature of Verona is Romeo and Juliet, as in Shakespeare is set here (took an Englishmen to put it on the map). There are three R&J points in Verona; the balcony where Romeo did his calling to Juliet, Romeo's home, and Juliet's tomb. The balcony site was overflowing with visitors, with a material bias of women. There is a statue of Juliet, where, if you pose with your hand on her right breast, it is supposed to bring you a fine lover. Watched countless people do the required pose, but there was no passion or joy in their face, just a “must do/was I smiling?” look on their faces. Of course, I also did the pose, but at least the thought of a lover (Jane) was central to my mind. Next, I sought out Romeo's home. It was on a deserted street, with a simple marble plaque on the wall. No one was there, there were not even shops or vendors there to add some sense of importance or completeness to his place. Go figure, without Romeo Juliet was a waste of time, last time I checked it takes two to tango. If the women were looking for a Romeo, your odds are better at his place then her's. To complete the cycle found Juliet's tomb, much more elaborate, at least there was signage but no crowds (but it was later in the afternoon). I have not read the pla,y but it is the same old boy meets girl, things get messed up, sad ending squared story. At least in a Jackie Collins there is some thoughtful stimulation and suspense.
As is my ritual every day, I check my email and speak to Jane on MSN. The idea of Hong Kong and teaching there had peaked and died a sad goodbye. No news is not good news. Over the weekend, I had sent an email to one of the interviewers, as I knew him from almost twenty years ago at UBC asking him for an update. BUT, there is / was, a semi-official offer to teach at Hong Kong Polytechnic University. What joy, relief, gratitude, calm, peace, wonder and prayerful awe filled me. Jane and I had prayed long, hard, deeply and completely for this outcome, and there it was. Our prayers were answered: we now had a home/location to know we could call home. Since April, we had been anxious about where we would work. Other than knowing it would not be at the Higher Colleges of Technology in the Emirates, and hoping that it would be at something a little more like a university, we had no clear idea of where that would be. This one, rather central piece to our marriage was missing, and now that part of the puzzle was completed, we could make plans. But again, I say Praise the Lord!! And Jane, I appreciate the way you stood by your man when the times were difficult.
What a wonderful way to end the day. Oh, walked about 20K.
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