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Venice. Sunday, July 5th.
As Venice was so overrun with visitors on Saturday, I figured the only way around that was to start the day early. As it was Sunday, there was a 7 AM Mass in St. Mark's Basilica (and no-one goes to Mass these days, so the church was guaranteed to be empty). Got to St. Mark's Plaza, and it was indeed empty, and in the church there were not more than 20 of us. Being alone in the Basilica and celebrating Mass changed the feel of the structure. The mass was in Italian, so for much of the time I had limited idea as to what was going on, so I was able to look at the mosaics and marvel at them, examine the five domes, look at the marble pillars and sneak a bunch of photos (officially photos are not permitted, as too many people use flashes). Looking at the pictures of the mosaics made me appreciate more the beauty of this basilica.
It was now 7:45, so I went back to my hotel (Hotel Astoria, excellent location and extremely reasonable, paying more to stay in Verona or Bergamo or most other places than here). After breakfast just started to walk. There is a major “S” shaped waterway that divides Venice (plus numerous small canals). The Grand Canal has three bridges that cross it, and as I had crossed two already, it was my goal was to cross the third bridge and visit that part of the city. The crowds were not up yet and the sky was overcast (there were thunder storms last night). Enjoyed the morning wandering about and trying not to get too lost.
Early in the day, I learned that Vivaldi (as in the Four Seasons symphony) was from near Venice, and that the violin was invented in this area. Vivaldi was one of the first composers to write music for the violin. So today's music theme was Vivaldi. Of my 7,000 songs, over 100 were written by Vivaldi. It was the right music for walking about Venice in. Kept me in a blissful wandering fog, the perfect space when you are on your own and in a bewildering and engaging place. My music has been my constant travel companion for these past two weeks. What a godsend Ipod's are.
The part of Venice I was in now was full of art galleries, expensive designer shops and trendy retailers. The Italians are a very design and style conscience, fashion aware, sophisticated people, and as a North American you can feel their class and bravado. By noon I had walked over 10 K and was bridges/canals/ alleys/islands/gondolas/ touristed out, and ready for some down time.
There are many islands not connected to Venice by bridges, rather you have to take small ferries to get to them. Lido Island is perhaps 1.5 K away from Venice, so I took a ferry to get there. Lido is a single island, and there are buses and cars on it as it is long and narrow. On the furthermost side from Venice there are beaches which stretch for several K. European beaches are so different from what I am used to. People are not out to look sexy, they are there to get a tan, lay about, play in the water, gather with family and friends and do what God intended beaches for. As it was Sunday, the beach was packed. In the public beach area were wall-to-wall bodies of every shape and size. Only the occasional Italian man was strutting his stuff: the women, almost all in the smallest of bikinis were seriously working on their tans. Again, the natural cool of the Italians strikes you. Finished my second trashy novel while sitting under an overhead sidewalk, as the sun was very intense. Walked a good length of the beach, then caught a ferry back to Venice. Found a MacDonald's restaurant within a stone throw of St. Mark's basilica. What a perfect way to end my visit to one of the most unique cities I have ever visited (but remember to bring your partner (and a fat wallet)]. Other than my place to stay, Venice is tres cher!
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