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Butterflies Ahead

Tuesday marked the first day of seeing the real Surinam. After a 3 1/2 hour drive we got to Brownsberg Natinal Park. I was not paying particular attention when someone yelled, "Butterflies ahead!!!" This was our first animal spotting. This is not a good sign, I thought. We skipped over the birds and went directly to insects. This could be a long sojourn.

Brownsberg National Park is about 100 KM south of Paramaribo (in the interior).  The park has a large lake in the middle of it.  The lake is a reservoir created by a large dam put on the Suriname River.   The reservoir is 1500 square kilometers and 15 meters deep.  Since the river was dammed in 1963, you can still see the remains of trees in the flooded areas.  These trees are of the hardwood variety and can still be harvested.  The dam generates power for the milling of bauxite into raw aluminum.  Once the aluminum is in semi-processed form it is shipped to places where there is plentiful cheap hydro power (like Terrace near Prince Rupert).

Went for a 5 K hike today.  5 k doesn’t sound like much until you appreciate the temperature never goes below 30 degrees C (88 F); the humidity is also 100%. I climbed down (and up again) an aggregate 1000 F (330 M, I know this as I have a watch which tracks altitude and accumulated altitude - wish I had the watch for the Inca trial) .  You are just covered with sweat, which is nice compared to prior expeditions in Africa where you got no exercise.  By the end of the hike, all that I’d seen were a few lizards and monkeys, a bunch of trees, two small waterfalls and many bugs (and no birds of note or interest).  Have to re-size my expectations for this trip; this is not Africa, and mammals are just not on the agenda.  If I’m lucky, I may see a jaguar but not counting on it.

Brownsberg National Parks is a tropical rainforest.  A rainforest is defined by having dense forest growth, extensive bush undergrowth and lots of rain.  I’m trying to figure out the difference between a rain forest and a jungle. I don’t appreciate the difference yet, but once I do, I’ll share it with you.  What is curious with rain forests is the density of the trees and undergrowth coupled with the fact that the roots of the trees are very shallow.  You have to walk carefully as the roots are on the surface - they do not go deep into the soil.  The temperature, rarely below 30, makes one forever mindful one is in a strange environment.

My mates (14 of us in total) include 3 Canadians and 11 Brits.  The average age is up there.  Most are serious or semi-serious naturalists and/or birders/insecters.  This makes for a serious and stern lot to travel with.  The Brits have their own humor which often goes right over my head.  None the less, they are a friendly/kind lot.

Not at all sorry I’m doing this tour. One has to accept that the world is not always as fascinating or spectacular as Bolivia or Namibia.  On this trip I will need to get in touch with my pinker side; such are life’s challenges

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