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Other entries in Buenos Aires

Argentina Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires!! We left the barren, mountainous, ancient, beautiful country of Peru behind to find ourselves in the bustling, cosmopolitan very 'Argentinian' city of Buenos Aires. The contrast was quite amazing. Staying in the old part of the city allowed us to people watch and feel the buzz of this vibrant place. Beautiful, elegantly dressed men and women, again a startling contrast. As it was winter the colour choice of clothing was basic black. We seemed to be the only people around wearing any colour! The shoes and boots are to die for!  As time went on we discovered the 'seedier' side to Buenos Aires as I suppose is the case in most big cities. The streets change dramatically at night with bands of people coming out to go through the days rubbish.  The homeless seem to find a piece of pavement outside the city buildings and set up camp there. Again distinct contrast between rich and poor.

Our first expedition (after the post office to finally offload alot of heaviness from our packs!) was to the Plaza de Mayo to be part of the weekly  march held by a group of women who quietly, but consistently protest for the children 'taken' during the revolution. A small band of dedicated mothers and grandmothers who, every Thursday afternoon at 3pm, march through the square and give their heartfelt speeches. Moving indeed. The 'Pink Palace' where Evita gave her speeches to the people is also there at the plaza. It was incredible to see the photos of the crowds in the square at the Evita museum. Either loved or hated, Evita changed the course of history in Argentina with her commitment and work for the 'common people'. The museum, which is in Palermo, is run by the 'Friends of Evita' so shows her in a very positive light, but is well worth seeing.

The first Sunday we walked in such peace and quiet, as nobody seems to be on the streets on the weekends, to San Telmo. An old area of the city  that boasts artisans and antique dealers. There is a market held there every week with stalls going for miles down the streets. There was definately alot of 'oh look at that!' along the way.  Artists, buskers, performance artists, stall holders of all descriptions. It's all in San Telmo on a Sunday. San Telmo also has two of the best 'lomo', that's beef to us, restaurants in town. 'Manolos and desNivels', fantastically bustling old restaurants with cheap 'lomo' (the best ever!) and wine. A must do. 

Another must is the Recoleta cemetery where Evita is now buried. It is  beautiful and a little creepy at the same time with extravagant headstones, coffins visible in the tombs and hundreds of cats seeming to be the guardians!. Recoleta also has an amazing art museum. Spent quite a while wandering in there.

We found the public transport so easy so jumped a bus for La Boca! It is supposed to be a pretty rough area but in the confines of Caminito it is touristy so relatively safe. Caminito is a street full of different coloured houses and restaurants with Tango dancers on the pavement. So alive and so incredibly colourful. We tangoed in the steet, great fun even though we weren't terribly good at it! More artwork, more to see. You really need more than a day there.

We found a great youth hostel called the Portal del Sur, a gorgeous old restored building, thankfully with an ancient lift as well as we were on the top floor! We kept extending our stay as we found more to do. The late sidewalk lunches with a G&T or a whiskey seemed to become a regular occurence! We found ourselves in a time warp as it seemed to stay 3 o'clock for a very long time every day!

There were massive celebrations at the 'Obelisque', a giant structure which was actually fitted with a giant pink condom for World Aides Day, one Saturday night as Argentina had won the soccer final in the Cup America!! Partying, music and fireworks went all night! They are very passionate about their soccer! Youth Hostelling proved to be very educational for a couple of old girls. Let's just say the walls were thin and the hormones of the 'youth' in the hostel were running rampant!

We treated ourselves to breakfast at the Cafe Tortoni, a cafe famous for it's patrons of writers and artists over the last hundred years. Gorgeous memorabillia.

One little hiccup! The stolen camera! I unfortunately was the victim of a very smooth scam.  After a few tears,  some help from a very sweet cafe owner and a trip to the station in a police car,  it was decided that there was nothing to be done so may as well get on with enjoying Buenos Aires! There is so much to see, do and experience in Buenos Aires. It was also nice to have a base and stay in the one place for a while. Would love to go bacj there in the summer as the atmosphere would be even more alive and vibrant. We obviously felt good there as there was always much laughter coming from the two Aussie women!

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