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Samoa 2

Manono

Day 1

We were up at 6.30 today to pack our bags, we thought everything was covered in sand but it was probably termite dust. We then loaded the car with the bags and went to breakfast. At the end of breakfast we were told that the staff were going to sing the leaving song so as they set up we wrote scores on bits of paper so we could mark them. It went down very well and I don't know if they had seen that before. We said goodbye to Rob and Sarah who were on there way home via a week in the states. We had also been talking to Neil and Sam about one of the islands called Manono and we decieded to go along with them to check it out. But before that we went to the island cave pool which is based in one of the theological colleges. It was a nice fresh water pool right next to the sea. There were a few fish in it, we didn't go all the way into the cave as we couldn't see what was in there. After a while, having talked to another couple there, we made a move back into town as we had to give the cars back. Mia and Neil dropped Sam and I back at the tourist info place and went to drop off the cars, then walked back. We grabbed some lunch then as we were walking to the tourist info palce it poured with rain. Mia and Sam were both wearing white tops so not so good for them. Then we got a taxi to Manono-Uta to get the boat. It was a slow 20 minute boat trip to the island and we were dropped off at Manono Sunset Fales. We were met by Leota the owner and his family, Leota was very humble and kept saying thank you for coming to his fales. He told us the history of the fales and his attempt to get into lonely planet (which he is in now). He then apologised as they were doing up the small fales so we could have the bigger ones at the same price. We couldn't have asked for more, the big fale was on top of the hill so there were excellent views of the islands and the sunset. We had basically been given a small cottage with a big veranda. The only thing that Leota didn't have was a bar, so we had to buy our drinks from the local village shop which we did before going for a swim at the local beach. Everyone we passed were very friendly asking us who we were and where we were from, always with big smiles.  Then it was back to the fales, tea was called by a blow on the conch shell. After tea we sat on the pier and stared at the millions of stars. I couldn't believe how clear it was. Then eventually after chatting with Leota everyone drifted off to bed.

Day 2

Up early today as Leota owns about 12 BLOODY ROOSTERS!!!!!!!!! COCKLE DOODLE BLOODY DOING!!!! After breakfast we chilled for a bit then Neil, Sam and I went snorkelling. There is a lot of dead coral due to the effect of el ninio but there were a few big fish and a loads of small ones. I saw a big trumpet fish and a sea horse!!!!!! It looked really cool. It makes you want to go diving that's for sure. Afterwards we watched big black clouds go around the reef followed by lots of thunder and a bit of lightning. At dinner we met Hanan who is Leota friend from denmark. He helped do the plumbing at the fales. He only came to Samoa in 2005 and he already knows a lot of the language and the history of the country. He has been made a matai (chief) of a family in Falealope in Savaii which is almost the highest honor to have in Samoa. However it does come with great responsibility he must provide for the family although he siad that providing for a family of ten costs about the same as if he was living on his own in Denmark. After tea I sat on the pier with Hanan and he expalind the way that Samoa was converted to Christianity and the history behind some of the weaponry I had seen in the market. He really is a fountain of knowledge but he does think we're from Ireland.

Day 3

Up for breakfast at at via the conch shell, as we were eating a big troop of school kids who had won there local football competition came in and picked up any rubbish they could find. We decided to go for a walk around the island, and hadn't gone far when we came across a game of volley ball. We stopped to take some photos and lots of kids ran out to see what we were doing and loved having there photos taken, they kept putting their thumbs up and getting closer to the camera. They really liked seeing their images on the screens of our cameras. Then the troop from the school passed us again. A man came out and shouted orders to the guys playing volley ball and they went off and started training for rowing by having a pulley on a branch and a rope through it, one end tied to a stick the other to a sand bag. Further around we found a spot where the locals were trying to grow back some of the soft coral killed off by environmental disasters. We were being followed by a wild looking child a bit like the kid from mad max 3. Soon we were stopped by a girl called Stephanie, from New Jersey, who was a peace core volunteer. She seemed really pleased to see us and talked for ages. It seemed like a really great thing she was doing. She recommended places for us to see. She told us the wild boy couldn't go to school as he didn't have a birth certificate. Then we carried on around the island seeing the sights like toilets with tvs on the roof and long boats. We stopped for a rest by Nuulopa island before making the final stretch back to the fales. Then after another snorkel it was lazing on Neil and sam's veranda listening to music and having a few beers. We saw the long boats come past. There is a competition to prepare for and by the look of it they need a lot. Then we were called down to see how the Umu was prepared. Neil and I had a go at scraping the coconuts, while an old local was taking the micky saying we were going to slow. Then Junior (Leota's son) had a a go and showed us how it was done, it's not as easy as it looks. After tea we all sat on the pier playing slaps with Netti (Leota's youngest son) he kept winning. Sau (wife) was also on the pier and at one point she fell asleep and rolled into the water. Netti ran over wanting to jump in to but she said no. it seemed as if she had done it before. After trying to spot satallites for ages we went back to the fale as it seemed really late...and it was 9pm!!

Day 4

Up early again via the rooster alarm clock. We heard a strange drum beat which turned out to be one the long boats. We thought it was a great beat if you were going to rowing at a rave, you could have giant glow sticks for oars!!! I had the first shower as the night before there was a bloody great big huntsman spider in it. I had obviously told all those who fear spiders it was tiny, but it is the biggest one I have ever seen and I've seen a few. After breakfast we chilled out before getting the boat over to Nuulopa to see the flying foxes (fruit bats). As the boat approached the island loads of bats flew out of the tees and headed towards Manono, you could really see the distinct bat shape. Very eerie. Once on the island we climbed the steep hill to the top so we could see the bats up close which was really cool. Then we came down, well some people slid down putting holes into the cloths they were wearing. Then it was another snorkel in the warm waters of the reef. We had some bread to see if the fish would eat it but they didn't. Mia saw three sea horses and I saw a female boxfish and a really big fish I could work out the name of. Then when we got back neil and I had a beer on the pier until tea. During tea we spoke to Katie (Leota's youngest daughter) she told us about a party she will go to on the main island because her group had won a dancing competition. So we made Junior come into the main room and play guitar so we could see Katie dance. We all tried to follower her but to no avail. Then we got Junior to show us the male dancing which is even more complicated but a very good work out. Neil showed him the worm, I showed him he spin and a guy called Izzy (oz) showed him the cockroach. Junior asked me to do more silly dancing but I said I wasn't that's just the way I dance.

Day 5

Today the rooster went off and it was even sunny, and that's because the sun wasn't even up yet!!! After breakfast we went to see Stephanie but she had gone to Savaii the day before so we headed back to the fales. On the way back we were followed by lots of kids and got involved in a game of krikiti (a form of criket with a three edged bat). I also drew for the kids, my artistic skill must be improving as I drew a pig and a little girl looked at it and said pussy cat. All the kids kept shouting "palangi palangi" which most tourists are called it is like being called white man, but it actually means ‘those who burst from heaven.' We got back for lunch and then packed our bags and chilled out. Later a guy turned up on the boat who was so drunk he almost fell of and Leota refused to let him stay so he took him to his brother's house. After tea we spent the night on the pier counting the shooting stars.

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