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Slow. Sleepy. Luang Prabang. An ex-French colony, Laos has retained some of its mediterranean charm, apparently nowhere more so than the Northern capital of Luang Prabang. Many of the French-style houses and buildings are fronted with huge, lush, bourganvilaia bushes with bright red and purple flowers. On the Mekong riverside the small, simple restaurant terraces are seperated with trellices supporting all sorts of colourful flowers, next to palm trees and yukka plants and banana trees as well as all sorts of plants, flowers and bushes I don't know the name of. The effect though, is that this could be Cannes or Nice, were it not for all the Lao people, the Lao food and of course, the now famous Beerlao. Many of the street signs and monument plaques are translated into French rather than English, and near the locals' eating areas there is invariably a group of locals playing petanque. It's quite strange.
Just now, as I was sat here after having written that last sentence, finishing my lunch at one of the aforementioned riverside restaurants, I was thinking about how to describe the friendliness of the locals. One of the many young girls who walk around with a tray selling bracelets and bangles approached me, not to sell me anything, but having noticed the rolling tobacco on my table, offered me a handfull of Rizla. I had plenty, so I politely said 'no' and 'khop jai' (thank you) 'bow pen ngang' she replied - no problem. Then she left.Bo pen gnang. If this country had a motto then that would be it - Don't worry, no problem, it's OK (actually, Laos might have a motto, I just haven't checked it out - you know what I mean). People in the street are always ready with a smile or a greeting 'sabai dee', and you realise that although this is one of the poorest countries in the world, that a smile and a greeting 'sabai dee' costs nothing.
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