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Tourist Hampi

I like Hampi. I knew I'd like Hampi, and I really like Hampi. It's a relatively small place, but it's very famous on the backpackers' circuit for its slow pace, ancient ruins and amazing scenery. The fact that the traffic is limited to a small number of rickshaws (and even they are restricted to the main street) adds to the enforced tranquility of the frequent power cuts. The only engines you ever hear are those of the scooters and motorbikes that weave through the small, uneven roads of the main bazaar. This place is similar to Jaisalmer in that it's been totally taken by tourism. At any moment your average tourist will have 3 internet cafes within sight. From where I'm sitting now I can see 10 guesthouses, most with restaurants. This could be seen as a tourist hell, but I can also see a huge, ornate temple towering ovew the skyline with a backdop of a granite hill made entirely of boulders. These boulder mountains make up most of the surrounding area, their size and strength demanding a peaceful air through the palm-strewn town. There isgood reason behing this being an essential stop on any tour of southern/central India. I have spent the past couple of days mainly sat in the rooftop restaurant above my guest house, reading, listening, chatting and generally not feeling the need to do anything. It's great. Tomorrow I'll wake up early to go to see Laxmi, the temple elephant, taking her bath in the river. There are also plenty of temples and ancient centres to see, many of which are accessible only by bicycle or the most determined of walks.

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