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Other entries in Grindelwald

Global warming takes away the Grindelwald Glacier

Anyone still sceptical about whether or not global warming exists should visit Grindelwald.

When Sue and I were last here in 1994 the Grindelwald Glacier was one of the region's great tourist attractions. A short walk brought you to the head of the glacier, from where you climbed a few steps to a tunnel carved deep into the ice. Inside were ice sculptures, but the best sight was the amazing deep blue ice all around, which was estimated be thousands of years old.

But now, it's as if the glacier never existed. There's no mention of it in any of the tourist literature and no reference to it on any maps. Our host Mark solves the mystery for us - global warming. In recent years the glacier's retreat accelerated to the point where huge slabs of it simply broke off and crashed down the valley, forcing it to be closed for a while. It's now reopened so we decide to take a drive around to Grindelwald to see for ourselves and it's a very, very sad sight. After a fair walk through the valley above Grindelwald you come to what was, in 1994 at least, the entrance to the glacier. Now it's just a sad little tourist shop at the base of a rock strewn valley, with a huge wooden staircase (890 stairs we're told) climbing straight up the cliff face. Apparently, somewhere at the end of that staircase you can now find what is left of the glacier, but it's now too dangerous to climb on, or in it, so all you can do at the end is see it at some distance.

It's easily the most shocking thing we have seen on our holiday, and a stark warning that global warming is not some vague theory, but a phenomenon that is now having a very real impact on our planet. For our children this means they have missed seeing this wonderful sight, and we now regret not having paid the extortionate fee the day before to take the train to Jungraujoch where it is still possible to see a real glacier, albeit one thousands of metres further up the mountains.

It would have cost us around $700 to take this trip as a family, but given the retreat of the Grindelwald Glacier, a worthwhile investment to have shown our children a glacier while they still exist.

Disheartened at what we have seen, and disappointed at not being able to deliver the kids the promised walk inside a glacier, we trudge back to town for lunch. Grindelwald is easily the biggest town in these mountain valleys and a major tourist centre, especially in Winter. But, to us, it's not a patch on Lauterbrunnen and if you want to see this spectacular part of Switzerland, you are best sticking to the valley on the other side of the mountains.

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