In order to get to the Galapagos, you have to take a plane from Quito or Guayaquil to Santa Cruz or Saint Cristobal Island.  We flew into Santa Cruz.  It is a 1.5 hour flight from Guayaquil.  The Galapagos is made up of 13 islands (only 4 or 5 with inhabitants) and 7 climate zones with part of the islands sitting right on the equator.  The area really is a tourist trap, however, very much worth the trip. 

A few years ago, Ecuador changed to the American dollar as their currency in order to help stabilize their economy.  It did help stabilize their economy, but it seemed like things were over priced based on the relatively poor communities.  When you add a tourist trap, things really do get priced out of this world.  Ecuadorians, however, do have a special price for some of these areas.  The flight in off season from Guayaquil runs $300.  The same flight was around $75 for natives.  Unfortunately, I don't think our extra costs are getting into the hands of those that could really use it nor being used for the conservation efforts so desparately needed.

We flew actually into the airport in Baltra, then took a bus and ferry over to the main island of Santa Cruz.  We bused over the top of the volcanic island where giant tortoises roam to the port city of Puerto Ayora.  We went through several climate zones before arriving in the port.  Most of the island is volcanic and very desolate except the center of the island which is very moist with lots of scrub tree vegetation.

In Puerto Ayora, we visited the Charles Darwin Reseach Institute before boarding our ship.  The research lab is working to repopulate the islands with many of the almost extinct animal species - especially tortoises and iguanas.  They have had some very good luck reestablishing several species.  We saw lots of new giant tortoises and land iguanas.  One tortoise, called Lonesome George, is the last one of his species.  They have been trying to get him to mate with females in a similar species, but no luck, so he continues to be Lonesome George.

Every species in the Galapagos is unique to this environment.  Since the islands are so far from land, the different animals did not have any natural enemies until man arrived and introduced dogs, cats, rats, goats and other domestic animals.  The biggest enemy has been man himself.  Since the conservation efforts were introduced about 40 years ago, the non-indiginous animals have been slowly erradicated so the native animals have a chance at survival.  The animals here have made major transformations and adaptations in order to live in the isolated environment (i.e. beaks, claws, color, flying ability).  Very interesting to see how species have adapted and changed over the years.

After we visited the Darwin Center and shopped a bit, we boarded our yacht - Cruz del Sur - to start the ocean journey.  The yacht was a first class boat that could accommodate 16 passengers, 5 or 7 crew with a naturalist.  It had 8 double cabins each with its own bathroom and air conditioning.  We only had 8 passengers on this voyage so I was fortunate to have my own cabin.  The yacht had been in port the previous week for its annual maintenance, so we were ready to go.  Five of the passengers signed up through GAP Adventures and then the 3 of us signed up at the last minute through the boat owners. 

The group was fantastic!  We melded right away and by the end were already talking about reunion trips around the world.  The group represented several places throughout the world (and Jim, most enjoyed a good scotch!):

· Morten and Kamilla from Denmark (traveling for 4 months through SA, Costa Rica and Mexico)

· Christa and Peter from Hamburg, Germany (newly retired cardiac physician and wife)

· Michael and Kelly from Toronto, Canada (expecting their first child next year, Kelly was a prof. ski racer)

· Sally from the UK but living in La Tania, France running a ski chalet

· Yours truly from Colorado

Edwin Garcia was our level 3 naturalist guide (highest level).  He was a riot with incredible knowledge, passion, humor and facial expressions.  He was very strict, however, when it came to proper behavior with the animals and plants.  He even put himself in harms way when he videoed and reported those harming the environment.  His dedication and passion to his homeland was wonderful!  We all wanted to abide by the rules! 

Anyone going on a trip to the Galapagos should contact Edwin (ebgala30@hotmail.com or Isla Santa Cruz, Prov. Galapagos, Ecuador) and see what boat he will be on.  He, like many of the naturalists, is a free lancer.  Your guide, more than anything else, can make or break your trip, so don't skimp!  Make sure your boat has a bilingual level 3 naturalist.    After all, you came to experience this unique environment! 

After getting settled into our cabins and having a lucious dinner, we set sail for our next island - North Seymour Island.

BTW, Galapagos is a Spanish word meaning "saddle".   Don't know why the Spaniards named it that - we never saw anything that looked or acted like a saddle.