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Leaving Jaipur behind we arrive at Agra, 5 hours later by bus. Here is where the great Taj Mahal lies - And nothing else. Many tourists, so I am told, come here for some photos of the Taj and get the hell out. Kat and I quickly found out why.
The town itself, thesedays, leaves little to be desired other than its over agressive rickshaw drivers and highly persistent street touts. So, we arrive just before sunset and check in to our hotel for 1 night. We are told to get the best views of the Taj we should get up at 5am and make the 5 minute walk from the hotel to get a spot in line when it opens at 6am.
So, an early night and an early morning we make it to the gate at 545am to be about the 20th foreigner in line - looks like everyone else is heeding the advice also. After paying 1500 RPS (35.00 US) for the both of us to get in, we grab our complimentary bottle of water - you would hope so at this price which may not sound like much, but for India is extortionate. I might here that Indians pay only 25 RPS to get in and this goes for many tourist places, hotels, taxis etc. If you are western, you pay more, and they are not indiscreet about it either, it is just accepted.
Once in, the sun is rising above the trees and clouds and you see the magnificent Taj Mahal. Funny enough the ruler who built the Taj, hugely overspent the state funds and was later imprisoned by his predecessor (his son) for doing so. Some might call him extravagant, but I see him as a visionary, someone who created something so special it has brought people from far and wide to India for centuries and will continue to do so.
With the Taj complete we head back to the hotel and grab our bags and bust a move to the train station to book tickets to New Delhi. There are 2 options here, sleeper class or 2nd classs. Since it is only a 3 hr trip we opt for 2nd class and its a bargain. At the platform an eager shoe mender/shiner informs us that the Delhi train is 30 minutes behind schedule and the next train arriving is not for Delhi. He also says that 2nd class is on the far opposite end of the platform.
So we head down, with the shoe guy in toe. After sitting he notices my shoe tow is coming unglued and he would like to fix it. I have to pull my foot away as he is removing my shoe from my foot. No, I exclaim your not fixing my shoe, so he then tries to clean it. This is when you lose your patience in India. But it gets worse. He finally leaves and a train pulls up. Another shoe guy arrives and tells us that this in fact IS the train to Delhi and that 2nd class is at the end where we were originally - you can just never trust anyone in India as they can tell from the colour of your skin alone that you are a foreigner and probably clueless.
So Kat and I sprint towards the only 2 2nd class carriagges on the train, which, by now are extremely full. We manage to squeeze our way into the open doorway of the car with just enough standing room for our backpacks and us to make the 3 hr train ride. This is how REAL India travels and happily also. For their culture it is all about the fact they are getting to their destination. They don't care if it is squatting on the floor of a train, riding with double the amount of allowed passengers in a car or atop the luggage racks of busses. They deserve to be commended for their personalities and ability to handle such circumstances.
A long 3 hrs later we arrive having enjoyed being an Indian for a change. You realize that in Europe and especially in America we are hugely spoiled with convieniences - each new day brings a unique, new lesson.
W and K
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