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Kathmandu, Nepal
27° 43' N 85° 18' E
Apr 29, 2007 03:37
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where: nepal, of course. fly to lukla, trek to gokyo lakes region, renjo pass, down dudh koshi valley, then out through jiri
# of days treking: 27
# of rest days: 3 (stupid....)
total kms treked: 135-ish
total up: 12,750m / 40,000ft
total down: 13,700 / 43,000ft
btw - altitude gain from everest base camp to summit: 3,500m / 12,000ft (slackers)
highest point for me: 5,340m (renjo la)
lowest point: 1,200m (dudh koshi river crossing)
# of times I wished I had a guide: 0
# of times I wished I had a porter: .5
most common meal: 1 pot lemon tea, potato soup, veg/egg/fried potato
# of potatoes eaten: approx 150
# of kgs lost: 5
# of hungarian photographers I met traveling with large-format camera who invited me to join his group over renjo la pass & to visit a yak herder in remote valley: 1
# of porters required to carry hungarian photographer's gear: 3
# of porters required to cary my gear (including over 5300m pass): 0!!! (that was all me baby!!)
climate/flora zones passed thru: jungle, rhododehndron/oak forrest, pine forrest, cloud forrest, scrub juniper, no forrest aka: defforestation, alpine tundra, 100% rock, landslide
# of buffalo/yak seen: 300+
# of buffalo steaks eaten: 5 (not nearly enuf...)
# of porters seen carrying hunks of buff carcass up valleys: 30+
# of dead, gutted buf I saw on side of trail: 1 (and I got to thump it's still bloated, unpopped belly. I stared at that buff as much as the locals stared at me)
wild critters spotted: snow leapoard (no shit - even the guide of 15 yrs had ever seen one) & one pika....yeah, aside from that leopard, a really lame showing of wild life
# of times snowed on: 4
rained on: 6
most amazing place I've been in this ENTIRE 18 mo journey: dig tsho - a turquoise lake surrounded by 7000m peaks and glaciers in a totally isolated valley (it's where we saw the snow leopard). it burst it's banks 15 yrs ago so major land destrustion/errosion to boot. colors = turquoise lake, grey rock, white/blue glacier, tan rocks, blue sky....a mono-chrome heaven of greys with a brilliant blue mass in the center. felt like home. had to drag myself away....
# of yak hearder barns slept in: 1
# of maoists I ate dinner with: 5 (by accident - they 'dropped by' on my last night with photographer and guide @ the guides tea house. they demanded a free meal and lodging. didn't realize at the time the all-cammo-clad dude was the leader. pretty likely he's commtted some heinous acts in his lifetime....)
# of maoists demading money from me: 0 (it's a new nepal for real...)
# of times I felt unsafe or threatened as a solo treker: 1 (on the last freekin day! was obnoxious dude staring at me, who I yelled at, who then sort-a followed me....but nothing happened mom and I'm ok....)
blood oxygen percent @ 3800m: 92%
blood oxygen percent @ 4800m: 82%
blood oxygen percent @ 5000m pass: dunno (wasn't with the group whose guide was giving free readings anymore)
# of pre-dawn starts in the freekin dark: 2 (photgrapher made me do it)
# of times I saw everest: 5 (1 was sunrise smack in the middle between everest and lhotse - in this case, the pre-dawn start was worth it)
average hours treking per day: 5
longest day: 12 hrs (but included 4 hr break to snap sunrise pics of everest & sketch the gokyo valley...so not complaining)
coldest night: 0C
biggest temp spread: 10C at 3500m pass, 27C in valley
# of days without washing treking pants: 24
# of peeps treking with me most the time: 0 (maybe this is realated to that last point)

yeah, I'm out - what an amazing month. 1 day into it I wasnt sure how I was gonna last but I did. only got sick the second to last day - had to bust out a 700m climb while being completely disgusted by food...that was brutal. but my legs have never been more solid since the marathon days so not complaining AT ALL!

wicked. absolutely wicked. go to nepal, that's all I can say for now....(that's all I keep saying)

now 4 days to run around crazy kathmandu then fly to aus by way of bahrain and singapore (no joke). talk to you next from aus - the land where hot water comes out of taps in the wall!

btw - met an awesme sherpani girl in junbesi. she's back in her village for 6 months working at the health post. I think she'd be a great match for pemba sherpa, my friend here in ktm. is it wrong for ME to try to be a matchmaker??!