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Other entries in Kannur

heaven!

as if we didn't relax enough in goa....we decided to stop mid-way at this guest house mentioned in lonely planet. well, once again, I have to admit the LP got it right - this place was brilliant! we'd booked 2 days but got sucked into 4. costa malabari (http://www.costamalabari.com/beachholidays.htm - click on 'more pics') in kannur has this amazing location on a cliff overlooking the ocean with beach access and all meals included for, like $15US /night. a little pricey on a backpacker budget, but if you're coming to india, **stay at this place**!!

we got into the sweet '2nd bungalow' that is right on the ocean. a short hike down a steep cliff and we had a (more or less) secluded beach (only a few creepy indian guys, but they didn't stick around for long. or ring their friends).  ate amazing authentic kerralan meals every day. and mr kurian, the manager, is an expert on theyyam trances and arranged for us to see one the first night.

theyyam is a 'dance' performed by a medium who serves as a conduit for god (and so makes this WAY more than just a dance). offerings are made (oil, rice, banana leaves, marigold petals, coconuts, etc), drums are banged, a priest and the medium dance and the medium is overtaken by the spirit of god. the medium is painted head to toe and spins around with a bow and arrow (at one point I thought he was going to shoot the arrow into his belly - he'd painted a huge target around his belly button! - but guess these aren't those kind of trances (as in, the body mutilation kind)). once he's been in this trance for a while (which I felt so lucky to see - especially here, cause this wasn't touristic at all - this is a bona-fide belief system that loads of people live and respect and truly believe in) and your ears are absolutely RINGING from the drums, he stops the spinnnig/dancing/trancing, and the throwing of all the offerings (oily marigold petals were flying everywhere) and a chair is pulled out so he can dish out advice to the locals who have lined up.

at this point, think of him as a 'mouth of god' therapist. sort of like a catholic confessional but - and this is SO india - done out in the open for all your neighbors to overhear too. the locals would whisper something in his ear and he'd respond back. if it was extremely personal, he'd whisper back in their ear but mostly he dished in public. man, I REALLY wish I spoke hindi to know what everyone was saying....

the stragest thing of all tho, was observing the sari-clad women. they were behind a metal fence during the whole ceremony. K....figured that was just so they felt comfortable, y' know, so no men would JUMP THEM during the dance. but when confessional time hit, and a few men helped maneuver that metal fence to still surround the ladies while they were in line waiting to speak with the theyyam, like cattle on their way to slaughter, it was more than a little strange & maybe I'll even fess up and say: offensive (to them. not me, of course)

I read how muslim women must keep their elbows covered because an elbow could remind a man of a certain part of the female anatomy. well, there's been little signs of conservative life like this all over india to which I say "get over it you stupid men!" I mean, for shiva's sake, do you really have such little self control? is your lust over women really so uncontrollable in yourself that you have to control them?? sorry for the grandstanding, but man this is really starting to BUG me.

mary mc cloud, black educator, had this to say: "The true character of a race must be measured by the character of its woman." and clearly india (errr....I mean....the worlds' major religions) have loads more work to do in this department.

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