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Other entries in Muang Xai

wtf

the aussies who told me busses were running also told me the bus/taxi stand was '1km outside the city'. 1km is no prob to hike so I refused a lift, but after 30 mins of walking and no sign of a bus station, I started to worry.

I started asking locals 'muang xai?' while pointing up the road. all nodded 'yes' tho started wondering if they were just agreeing that 'yes, that is the way to walk to muang xai'. man, do they really think that's what I want to do?

I decide to bust out my lonely planet for the mini-phrase book in back, look up 'bus station', totally hack pronunciation of their tonal language so of course no one understands me. I  finally accidentally say 'taxi' and get the recognition I'm looking for 'oooooohhhhhh, tahks-seeeee????' more head nods and pointing in the direction I'm walking (whew. but so much for that helpful LP). clearly those aussies have no clue what 1km is. but at least it's not raining too bad.

I finally find it, buy my ticket, wait around, miss fact that a songtau has pulled up (mine, to be exact) and 2 smart tourists and loads of locals have already gotten on. by the time I figure it out, there's no more room. ugh - not again. oh yeah, and it's started pouring.

they decide to bump off a few locals not going the whole distance, but that still puts 3 tourists on the floorboards (at least not me). I'm sandwiched between an old lady and tiny girl. along the way, both get car sick and start moaning and puking/spitting into plastic bags. the old lady is resting her head on my shoulder and even moved my arm to make it more comfortable for her. uhm, yeaaah. at least no one is puking ON me....

survive 5 hours of this, get to bus station. have to wait 4-5 more hrs (no one is totally sure) for bus to luang nam tha. have also learned that bus from LNT to thai border is probably not running due to rains and that the alternate route will take 3 days. due to my money situation (I dont want to exchange another $50 travelers check since I hear kip is worthless outside laos and so you cant exchange it back. and there are no ATMs to take out a smaller amount, so I'm trying to time my departure with exactly when I'll run out of money), I may get to LNT for one night, then have to turn around and go back from where I just came from.

at least I meet these 2 great girls (one scot, one aussie) also traveling for a year+, also thinking they may have to turn around and backtrack. there's comfort in knowing I'm not the only one making a lame decision. and the convo is great - I gave tips on south america, they gave tips on india- makes the delays seem not SO bad.

we finally leave on (a real!) bus to luang nam tha. a bonus as it really started raining. along the way, I noticed every local we picked up was wet, in brownish tinted clothes (no white tshirts here) and smelled of smoke. we're really in the land of huts and no electricity now.

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